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When a couple sits down at our Ottawa workshop to choose a metal, it's usually two conversations at once. One of you is looking at the price. The other has heard that 14K is harder, and is worried 18K won't hold up. Both are fair questions. Here's the honest answer to each.
The short answer
18K gold is always our go-to. It's denser and more malleable, so it absorbs everyday knocks instead of cracking.
14K gold works well when there are no gemstones to set, like a plain wedding band.
If you want a white metal, you have two good options: platinum or 18K white gold. Both are wonderful, and each has its trade-offs, which I cover below.
Isn't 14K harder?
Yes. Technically, 14K is a little harder than 18K, and a little more scratch-resistant. But not in a way you'll see with your eye.
Here's what matters more. 18K is denser and more malleable. Think of it like a shock absorber. Your ring is going to get hit. It happens to everyone. When it does, you want the claws to bend, not crack. A bent claw gets pushed back into place in a few minutes. A cracked one is a real repair, and sometimes a lost stone.
That's why the most iconic jewellery houses, like Cartier, Bulgari, Chopard and Tiffany, all use 18K. It's not about the number on the stamp. It's about how the metal behaves over decades of wear.
Doesn't 18K yellow look darker?
It can. More gold in the mix means a deeper colour, and not everyone wants that.
This is where alloying our own gold matters. We mix our 18K in our Ottawa workshop, so we control the colour, and we make it much lighter. You get the density and feel of 18K without the heavy tone. It's one of the most popular things we do, and it's a big part of why people end up embracing 18K.
Cheaper is more expensive in the long run. The metal is the part of the ring you touch every single day.
What about platinum?
Platinum is the king of white metals. It's naturally white, very dense, and very malleable. A wonderful material.
Here's something most people don't expect: gram for gram, platinum is actually less expensive than gold. But a platinum ring costs more, usually about 28% more than the same ring in 18K, at today's metal prices. Two reasons. Platinum jewellery is 95% pure, compared to 75% for 18K. And it's much denser, so the same ring holds a lot more metal. It's also harder to work with at the bench.
The one real downside, besides cost, is the finish. Over time, platinum dulls to a soft grey. Some people love that look. If that's okay with you, it's a wonderful choice. We set and finish platinum rings in our Ottawa workshop, and look after them for life, the same as gold.
Platinum or 18K white gold?
We get this question all the time in our Ottawa workshop. Like everything, both have advantages and disadvantages. Platinum is naturally white and hypoallergenic, but it dulls over time to a soft grey patina. 18K white gold starts bright, but slowly turns yellow and needs rhodium plating to bring back the white.
Platinum is also heavier. It's 95% pure and much denser than gold, which is part of why it costs more.
The good news: both are covered under our lifetime wear-and-tear warranty. Polishing platinum or re-plating white gold is done right here in our Ottawa workshop, by the people who made your ring.
Which metal for a wedding band?
This is where we split the difference.
We make a lot of custom men's bands here in Ottawa. 18K is expensive, and a plain band with no stones doesn't carry the same risk as an engagement ring. There are no claws to protect. So for a plain men's band, 14K is a fair way to bring the cost down, and we'll make it.
If the band has stones set in it, we go back to 18K, for the same reasons as the engagement ring.
From the workshop
What I'd do
If it were up to me, it's 18K every time. This is something you'll wear every day. Count the days you'll have it on your hand. That's where the investment is.
If you're still working out what a ring costs overall, start here. And if you're in Ottawa, book a time at the workshop. We'll put the metals in your hand so you can feel the difference.
Quick answers
Is 18K gold too soft for an engagement ring?
No. 18K is slightly softer than 14K, but it's denser and more malleable, so claws bend instead of cracking. That's why the major jewellery houses use it.
Is 14K gold more scratch-resistant?
Slightly, but not in a way you'll see with your eye.
Why does a platinum ring cost more if platinum is cheaper than gold?
Platinum jewellery is 95% pure and much denser, so a ring holds more metal. It's also harder to work with. Expect about 28% more than 18K.
Does platinum stay shiny?
It dulls to a soft grey over time. It can be polished back, and some people prefer the look.
Do you make 14K rings?
For plain men's wedding bands without stones, yes. For engagement rings and any band with stones, we use 18K or platinum.
