Round vs Fancy Shaped Diamonds: Which Should You Choose?

Table of Contents

1. What Are Round and Fancy Shaped Diamonds?
2. Brilliance and Sparkle Comparison
3. Price Differences: Value for Your Money
4. Size Appearance and Carat Weight
5. Style and Personal Preference
6. Durability and Practicality
7. Popular Fancy Shapes Explained
8. How to Choose the Right Shape for You
9. Conclusion
10. Frequently Asked Questions
11. References

What Are Round and Fancy Shaped Diamonds?

The round brilliant cut is a circular diamond featuring 57 or 58 facets, specifically engineered to maximize light return and brilliance. Developed over centuries and perfected by Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919, the round brilliant remains the benchmark against which all other diamond cuts are measured.

Fancy shaped diamonds refer to any diamond shape that isn't round. This category includes:

• Oval: An elongated round brilliant with similar faceting
• Princess: A square or rectangular cut with brilliant facets
• Emerald: A rectangular step-cut with long parallel facets
• Cushion: A square or rectangular cut with rounded corners and larger facets
• Pear: A teardrop shape combining round and marquise elements
• Marquise: An elongated shape with pointed ends
• Asscher: A square step-cut similar to emerald
• Radiant: A rectangular brilliant cut with cropped corners
• Heart: A romantic heart-shaped brilliant cut

Each fancy shape offers distinct visual characteristics, from the hall-of-mirrors effect of emerald cuts to the soft romance of cushion cuts.

Brilliance and Sparkle Comparison

When it comes to brilliance, the white light that reflects back to your eye, the round brilliant cut is scientifically superior. Its 58 facets are arranged in mathematically precise proportions to optimize light performance, creating maximum fire, brilliance, and scintillation.

Fancy shapes vary significantly in their sparkle:

High brilliance fancy shapes:

• Oval, pear, and marquise cuts use similar faceting to round brilliants, offering comparable sparkle with unique silhouettes
• Princess and radiant cuts deliver intense brilliance with their brilliant-style faceting

Lower brilliance fancy shapes:

• Emerald and Asscher cuts prioritize clarity and elegance over sparkle, creating a sophisticated "hall of mirrors" effect with broader flashes of light
• Cushion cuts offer a softer, romantic sparkle with larger, chunkier facets

If maximum sparkle is your priority, round brilliant, oval, or princess cuts are excellent choices. If you prefer understated elegance and a window into the diamond's clarity, step-cuts like emerald may be more appealing.

Price Differences for Natural Diamonds: Value for Your Money

For natural diamonds one of the most compelling advantages of fancy shaped diamonds is their price. On average, natural diamond fancy shapes cost 15-30% less per carat than round brilliant diamonds of comparable quality.

Why are natural round diamonds more expensive?

1. Higher rough diamond waste: Cutting a round brilliant wastes approximately 50-60% of the rough diamond, while fancy shapes can retain more of the original stone
2. Greater demand: Round diamonds account for roughly 75% of all diamonds sold, driving prices higher
3. Complexity: Achieving ideal proportions in a round brilliant requires exceptional skill and precision

Price comparison example for natural diamonds (1-carat, VS2, G color):

• Round brilliant: $6,000-$8,000
• Oval: $4,500-$6,500
• Princess: $4,000-$6,000
• Emerald: $3,500-$5,500

These savings allow you to either stay within budget or upgrade to a larger carat weight or higher quality grade when choosing a fancy shape for your natural diamond.

Note:  At Vero Diamonds the majority of what we sell are lab-grown diamonds and we sell the exact same price per carat for any lab-grown diamond cut.

Size Appearance and Carat Weight

Fancy shaped diamonds often appear larger than round diamonds of the same carat weight due to their surface area distribution.

Elongated shapes like oval, pear, marquise, and emerald distribute their weight across a larger surface area, creating a bigger face-up appearance. For example:

• A 1-carat oval can appear similar in size to a 1.2-1.3 carat round
• A 1-carat marquise may look as large as a 1.5-carat round

Square and rectangular shapes like princess, cushion, and emerald also tend to face up larger than rounds of equal weight.

This visual advantage means you can achieve a more substantial look without the corresponding price increase of a larger round diamond maximizing both visual impact and value.

Style and Personal Preference

Your diamond shape makes a powerful style statement:

Round brilliant diamonds convey:

• Timeless elegance
• Classic sophistication
• Traditional romance
• Universal appeal

Fancy shaped diamonds offer:

• Modern individuality
• Unique personality expression
• Vintage or contemporary aesthetics depending on the shape
• Fashion-forward appeal

Consider your personal style, lifestyle, and the jewelry trends that resonate with you. Oval and pear shapes currently dominate celebrity engagement rings, while emerald cuts appeal to those who appreciate Art Deco elegance. Princess cuts suit modern, minimalist aesthetics, and cushion cuts offer vintage charm.

Many people find that fancy shapes better reflect their unique personality, while others prefer the timeless assurance of a round brilliant that will never go out of style.

Durability and Practicality

Diamond durability varies by shape due to structural differences:

Most durable:

• Round brilliants have no pointed edges or sharp corners, making them less prone to chipping
• Princess cuts are well-protected when corners are secured with prongs

Moderate durability:

• Cushion and oval cuts have rounded edges that offer good protection
• Radiant cuts feature cropped corners that reduce vulnerability

Requires more care:

• Pear, marquise, and heart shapes have pointed tips that are more susceptible to chipping if struck
• Emerald and Asscher cuts can show chips more visibly due to their large, open facets

For active lifestyles, round, oval, or cushion shapes offer the best combination of beauty and durability. If you choose a shape with pointed ends, ensure the setting includes protective prongs at vulnerable points.

Popular Fancy Shapes Explained

Oval Cut

The oval combines the brilliance of a round with an elongated silhouette that flatters the finger. It's currently the most popular fancy shape, offering a modern alternative to traditional rounds with excellent sparkle and a larger appearance.

Princess Cut

This square brilliant cut delivers intense sparkle and modern appeal. Perfect for contemporary settings, the princess cut offers exceptional value and a clean, geometric aesthetic.

Emerald Cut

Characterized by its step-cut facets and rectangular shape, the emerald cut emphasizes clarity and creates a sophisticated, elegant look. It's ideal for those who appreciate understated glamour.

Cushion Cut

With its pillow-like shape and rounded corners, the cushion cut offers romantic appeal and vintage charm. Modern cushion cuts can exhibit brilliant sparkle, while antique cushions provide a softer glow.

Pear Shape

The pear or teardrop shape combines the brilliance of a round with the elegance of a marquise. It's distinctive and feminine, often chosen by those seeking something truly unique.

How to Choose the Right Shape for You

Consider these factors when deciding between round and fancy shapes:

1. Budget: If maximizing size or quality within a set budget is important, fancy shapes offer 15-30% more value
2. Finger appearance: Elongated shapes (oval, pear, marquise, emerald) create the illusion of longer, more slender fingers
3. Sparkle preference: Prioritize round, oval, or princess for maximum brilliance; choose emerald or Asscher for elegant subtlety
4. Personal style: Do you lean toward classic and timeless, or unique and fashion-forward?
5. Setting compatibility: Some settings work better with specific shapes, ensure your chosen shape complements your ring design
6. Lifestyle: Consider durability needs based on your daily activities

Pro tip: Visit jewelers to see different shapes in person. The shape that captures your heart immediately is often the right choice. Photos don't always convey the three-dimensional beauty and light performance of each diamond shape.

Conclusion

The choice between round and fancy shaped diamonds ultimately comes down to personal preference, with both options offering distinct advantages. Round brilliant diamonds provide unmatched sparkle, timeless appeal, and universal recognition, making them the safe choice for traditional elegance. Fancy shaped diamonds deliver exceptional value, unique aesthetics, and often a larger appearance for the same budget perfect for those seeking individuality and modern style.

Neither choice is inherently superior; rather, each serves different tastes and priorities. Consider your budget, lifestyle, style preferences, and which shape makes your heart skip a beat. Whether you choose the mathematical perfection of a round brilliant or the distinctive personality of a fancy shape, you're investing in a symbol of love that reflects your unique story.

The best diamond shape is the one that makes you smile every time you look at it and that's a deeply personal decision only you can make.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q. Are round diamonds really better quality than fancy shapes?

A. No, diamond quality is determined by the 4Cs (cut, color, clarity, and carat), not by shape. A well-cut fancy shaped diamond can be just as high quality as a round diamond. However, round brilliants are cut to maximize light performance more effectively than most fancy shapes, which means they tend to show more brilliance. Quality depends on the individual stone's characteristics, not its shape.

Q. Which fancy shape looks the biggest?

A. Elongated shapes typically appear largest for their carat weight. Marquise, pear, and oval cuts have the greatest surface area, making them appear up to 15-20% larger than a round diamond of the same weight. Emerald cuts also face up large due to their table size. If maximizing perceived size is your goal, these shapes offer the best visual impact per carat.

Q. Do fancy shaped diamonds sparkle as much as round diamonds?

A. It depends on the specific fancy shape. Oval, pear, marquise, princess, and radiant cuts use brilliant-style faceting similar to round diamonds and can exhibit comparable sparkle. Step-cuts like emerald and Asscher create different light effects, long flashes rather than sparkle, emphasizing clarity and elegance. Cushion cuts offer softer, chunkier sparkle with vintage appeal.

Q. Which diamond shape is most popular after round?

A. Oval diamonds are currently the most popular fancy shape, particularly for engagement rings. They've surged in popularity over the past decade, appearing frequently on celebrity engagement rings. Following oval, cushion, emerald, and princess cuts compete for second place, with preferences varying by region and current trends. Pear and radiant shapes are also gaining significant popularity in recent years.

References

1. Gemological Institute of America (GIA). "Diamond Shape and Cutting Style." GIA Education, https://www.gia.edu/diamond-shape-cutting-style
2. American Gem Society (AGS). "Understanding Diamond Cut Quality." AGS Laboratories, https://www.americangemsociety.org/
3. Tolkowsky, M. (1919). "Diamond Design: A Study of the Reflection and Refraction of Light in a Diamond." E. & F.N. Spon, Ltd.
4. Rapaport Diamond Report. "Diamond Pricing Analysis." Rapaport Research, https://www.diamonds.net/
5. International Gemological Institute (IGI). "Diamond Education: Shape Guide." IGI Worldwide, https://www.igi.org/
6. Shor, Russell. "The Rise of Non-Round Diamond Shapes." Gems & Gemology, Spring 2018, Volume 54, No. 1.
7. Breeding, C.M., and Shigley, J.E. "The Type Classification System of Diamonds and Its Importance in Gemology." Gems & Gemology, 2009, Vol. 45, No. 2.